Spring Summer 2027
Ornament becomes architecture.
For Spring Summer 2027, Christopher Esber draws on the
small language of dress. A pocket square, a cuff, a belt, a stud. Enlarged and displaced, these familiar details become integral to the construction of garments, shaping how fabric is held, draped and released against the body.
A rock and roll sensibility runs through the suiting, where proportions are elongated, cuffs multiply and belting moves between decoration and construction. Original studding from unused 1950s stock brings weight and precision to the fluidity of cloth.
Lace borrows from menswear, with pocket square motifs enlarged and reinterpreted in ceramic coated lace. Sheath tops reveal fine georgette beneath, while collars and lapels are morphed and abstracted across dresses and tailoring.
Lace trims, transparent lingerie jersey, bandeaux and bra straps are integrated into the garments, creating abstracted lines across the body.
Working closely with artist Anna Studeli, collage works are translated onto satin backed PVC, sitting between the familiar and the abstract.
Metallic turquoise lace floats around the body, gowns are cut away and shortened at the front, and leather is shredded, fragmented and pieced back together.
Presented in an underground Paris theatre beneath an oval skylight, across a floor of leopard carpet, the collection explores how a small detail can determine the shape and movement of an entire garment.
